Megan Warrington goes in search of Kenya’s wild side – tracking rhinos on foot and exploring the rare wildlife of the country’s rugged northern landscapes
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Beyond the refined side of safari, I was craving the raw beauty of Kenya – the kind you can only find by getting your boots dusty. There’s a special kind of adrenaline that comes from leaving the paved roads behind and heading into the rugged north of the country. This is a place where conservation isn’t just a buzzword – it’s a daily battle won by brave men and women who face real threats.
I wanted a journey that felt raw, one that required getting to know the land. This wasn’t about checking boxes; it was about the heart-pounding reality of the wild.
My goal was to move beyond the well-trodden safari circuits and immerse myself in the conservation efforts and authentic wilderness that define Kenya as a safari destination. This was a quest for genuine connection with a land and its magnificent creatures.
Walking with rhinos
The true heart of the journey began when we left the vehicle behind. Guided by the incredible intuition of our rangers, we swapped our seats for the raw, grounding thrill of tracking rhinos on foot. Set within the Sera Conservancy – Kenya’s first community-owned conservancy – this activity has been available for a little over ten years following growth in the local rhino population.
Earlier, local rangers had gone out to scout terrain and check waterholes for tracks to get a general idea of where the rhinos were. No tracking devices are used, just the interpretation of broken sticks, fresh dung, and the tracks in the sand.
We got to track two different rhinos in one morning. Standing in their presence was something special. Hearing their rhythmic breaths, just metres away, was mind-blowing.
Here I was, standing face to face with a giant that had done no wrong but had somehow been persecuted by the human race. For no other reason than greed. For anyone looking for something out of the ordinary, something life-changing and unique, this is the experience you need.
It’s incredible to think that this sanctuary started with just ten black rhinos in 2015. It now has a steady population of over 20, with white rhinos introduced in 2024. While that might not sound like much, it’s important to remember that the local rhino population in Samburu had been completely decimated due to poaching, with the last sighting of one occurring in the late 1980s and reports of the last rhinos being killed in 1998.
However, since their reintroduction, as well as the power of community-led conservation, nearly 30 years later, the conservancy has seen an impressive 16 per cent annual growth rate and boasts zero poaching.
Not only that, but a stay with Saruni Rhino, where this experience is offered, directly supports the community that helps conservation like this thrive. Saruni Rhino only
employs local staff, with much of its profits heading back towards local projects. While you may book just for the thrill of rhino tracking, it’s comforting to know that your money is contributing to something important.
Beyond the Big Five: Meet the Samburu Special Five
While the Big Five are iconic, this trip was all about stepping away from the norm. The Samburu region is home to the Samburu Special Five, species that have specifically adapted to the dry, desert-like landscapes of Kenya’s north.
The Samburu Special Five include the reticulated giraffe, Grevy’s zebra, the beisa oryx, the Somali ostrich, and the gerenuk. They’re found nowhere else in Kenya, so tracking them is a must-do activity, even if it’s just for the pictures and bragging rights!
The Naiboisha experience: Predators and prides
While I loved the uniqueness of the Samburu’s stark landscapes, Kenya’s Naibosho Conservancy provided some of my most unique wildlife encounters. I saw massive
prides of nearly 20 lions and huge elephant herds that seemed to be over 30 strong. The buffalo herds and hyenas were no different, with every group just seeming bigger than any I’d ever seen elsewhere.
One of my most memorable moments was coming across three lionesses feasting on the carcass of a warthog they had just hunted. Suddenly, a cackle of hyenas
surrounded them, looking for leftovers. Later, we tracked another pride. We sat there watching when they suddenly vanished into the brush; we couldn’t see them, but we
could hear the hunt just out of sight.
Culture without a filter
Another one of my personal highlights of the journey was a visit to an authentic Samburu Village. While the children were wearing modern clothing, the community still
strongly holds on to their traditions. The authenticity is what stands out the most, setting it apart from many other cultural tours you might encounter in the safari world.
As a part of the experience, we also paid a visit to the Enjoolata Community Centre at Basecamp Masai Mara. It serves as a community hub and as a means of cultural
exchange for the Maasai people, conservationists, and tourists alike.
One of its standout features is the work it does with local Maasai women through the Basecamp Masai Brand. They have a transparent system where the women create
beadwork and handicrafts. Each item has a code so that when it’s sold, the artisan receives her portion of the sale directly. It’s a wonderful fair-trade initiative that supports nearly 200 women.
The perks of a conservancy safari
If you’re seeking exclusivity and unique experiences, then a conservancy safari is a must. Staying on a conservancy offers a lot more flexibility than a national park, allowing you to embark on activities that aren’t usually allowed elsewhere. This includes night drives, walking safaris, and even bush dining.
Final thoughts
To sum up, my Kenyan adventure was a powerful reminder that true luxury in travel is found in connection – connection to wildlife, to culture, and to the vital, ongoing work of conservation.
For over 20 years, Discover Africa has arranged safaris like this one in Kenya, as well as in other East African countries and southern Africa, assisting people from
around the world in exploring the beautiful continent of Africa.
