Tristan Kennedy on the close encounters you can enjoy while wild camping
It was the middle of August, but as I unzipped the tent, I could see a thin layer of frost coating the ground outside. Cursing softly, I made sure I was firmly zipped into my down jacket before wriggling out of my sleeping bag to make coffee. This was not the summer holiday I’d promised my long-suffering partner.
We’d come to the far north of Sweden, so of course we knew that it might be cold. But nighttime temperatures for this time of year were supposed to be 10°C above zero, not several degrees below. When we’d set off hiking, three days before, the sun had been out and it was warm enough to swim in the glacial lakes. Now, it had been raining almost constantly for 24 hours, and in the brief periods when the rain had stopped, the midges had come out to play. Watching my frozen breath mix with the steam rising from the campstove, I looked at the surrounding hills and noticed the previous night’s steady drizzle had fallen as snow. And then, out of the corner of my eye, I saw something that not only shifted my mood, but sent me scurrying back into the tent to wake up my partner: a herd of wild reindeer, trotting across the snow-covered grass above us.
Such are the joys of wild camping, an activity that never fails to throw up surprises. Technically, wild camping is pitching a tent anywhere outside a recognised campsite. But the best wild camping trips, in my experience, involve getting a long way off the beaten track – to the kind of place you can only reach on foot, by bike, or on horseback.
There’s a primaeval satisfaction that comes with camping in a wilderness overnight – making your own campfire, cooking your own food and bunking down in a tent miles away from civilisation. Being outdoors early in the mornings and late in the evenings also allows you to experience wildlife in a raw, unfiltered way that you can’t really appreciate until you’ve slept out among it. My partner and I didn’t see a grizzly bear in Yukon’s Kluane National Park, but having to stash our snack bars, shampoo and other strange-smelling items in a bear-proof canister, place it a carefully paced-out distance from our tent, and then fall asleep with bear-spray close at hand helped me understand these creatures in a way that watching one from the car never could. On another wild camping trip to the Western Cape in South Africa, we spent an hour observing a family of baboons just a few hundred metres from where we’d slept. As with the reindeer in Sweden, there wasn’t another human for miles around.
Unfortunately, there’s a reason why all of my most memorable wild camping experiences have happened outside the UK: the activity is actually illegal throughout England and Wales. Even within the borders of the country’s national parks, you can’t pitch your tent outside of a recognised campsite unless you have express permission from the landowner. And the land that falls within the boundaries of the UK’s national parks is usually owned by a patchwork of private individuals.
There is one exception to the blanket wild camping ban. On Dartmoor, a convention dating back decades has long given campers the legal right to pitch tents wherever they want. But even this small concession is currently under threat, thanks to the efforts of a wealthy local landowner and hedge fund manager named Alexander Darwall, who has gone to court over the issue.
This is a crying shame, because wild camping is not just fun, it’s also surprisingly accessible. You don’t need any special skills, or a crazy level of physical fitness. That’s not to say that it’s always a walk in the park. I’ve been soaked through more times than I care to remember, and endured some of the coldest and least comfortable nights of my life. But I’ve also seen constellations that I thought were invisible to the naked eye, watched countless stunning sunsets and eaten some of the best meals of my life – nothing tastes better than a plate of pasta when you’ve been hiking, especially if you’re eating it in the middle of nowhere.
Often, the thing that makes the biggest difference to your wild camping experience is the kit. Investing in a tent that has a decent waterproof rating, a warm sleeping bag and a good inflatable mattress can make the difference between sleeping comfortably and shivering through the night. A backpack that’s big enough to carry all your kit comfortably and a reliable gas-powered camping stove are also necessities, as is a good waterproof jacket. Extras such as Thermos flasks, lightweight camping chairs and portable lights can make a real difference to comfort levels too. But acquiring the basics for a wild camping trip needn’t cost the Earth. And the things that really make it rewarding – from the surprise encounters with wildlife, to the sunsets, to the opportunities for stargazing – are all completely free.
The good news is that while England and Wales might be largely off-limits, there’s one place in the UK where these things can still be enjoyed freely. The long-standing, and staunchly defended, ‘right to roam’ means it’s still legal to pitch a tent anywhere in Scotland without the landlord’s permission. In terms of wildlife, you’re unlikely to encounter wild reindeer, but the local fauna is still pretty exciting, and if you want the true wild camping experience, Scotland has it in spades. After all, as I found out in Sweden, midges, rain and surprising cold snaps in the middle of August are all part of the fun.
Wishlist – Three items that will make wild camping better
The Essential: The North Face Assault 2 Futurelight Tent – £720
If you want to go camping, you’ll need a tent. If you want to go wild camping, it’s best to have one that’s lightweight and packs down small so you can carry it easily. The North Face Assault 2 Futurelight weighs less than 2.5 kilograms, and packs down to the size of a couple of two-litre coke bottles – which is seriously impressive for a two-person tent. The Futurelight in the name refers to the patented material it’s made from, which is highly waterproof and highly breathable. If you’re looking for something that will handle the toughest of Scottish weather, look no further. thenorthface.co.uk
The Luxury: Circular&Co. Stainless Steel Travel Mug 16oz/454ml – £28
Strictly speaking, you don’t need a mug that keeps your coffee warm while you’re wild camping, but it’s one of those little luxuries that makes sleeping outdoors feel cosier and more fun. This insulated mug will keep hot drinks warm for up to six hours and cold drinks cool for longer. A non-spill cap means you can put it down on uneven surfaces (such as rocks or grass) without worrying about it tipping. Like all Circular&Co. products, it’s ‘made from waste to end waste’ –
even the steel is 90 per cent post-consumer recycled, so this mug’s environmental impact is minimal. circularandco.com
The Surprisingly Useful: Galileo Air 1000 Rechargeable Light – £40
A portable light makes a big difference when you’re wild camping. Whether you’re cooking, looking for your stuff, or just reading, being able to see beyond the narrow beam of a head torch is hugely helpful. This rechargeable model offers a powerful, 1,000 lumen light source that will illuminate to 20 metres for an hour at full blast. It can also be dimmed to save the battery. It folds down flat, so it fits into a backpack easily, and weighs just 285 grams. The water-resistant light works fine in the rain and has a handy hook for hanging inside the tent. It also doubles as a USB battery charger. nebotools.co.uk
