Devryn Panaino talks to Thaakiera Ackerdien about Hwange National Park, exploring how a blend of community culture and conservation creates a safari like no other
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If your travel motivation is to feel transformed by the experience, gain cultural depth and see visible sustainability in action, then Zimbabwe’s Hwange National Park might be calling your name. Stretching across 14,600 square kilometres, Hwange is the country’s largest national park, known for its exceptional wildlife viewing and incredible culture.
Discover Africa safari expert Devryn Panaino recently returned from an immersive trip to Zimbabwe, and his experiences have provided him with invaluable insights into exploring this hidden gem.
A soft landing with Shongwe
Before delving into the rugged heart of Hwange, Devryn emphasises the importance of a ‘soft landing’ to shake off the fatigue of international travel.
His itinerary began in Victoria Falls at the Shongwe properties, which he describes as the perfect place to decompress. Unlike the untamed ruggedness of Hwange, Shongwe offers a resort-style atmosphere designed for pure relaxation.
Devryn was particularly impressed by the visual appeal of the water features. ‘It’s kind of like a resort… they’ve got infinity pools of different levels that go across all the properties and turquoise pools… so it looks like white sand, beach, and ocean.’
For travellers arriving from long-haul flights, this stop is strategic. It lets you ‘step out of your room… jump straight in the pool and you can swim to the bar if you want to,’ so you’re ready for the safari.
An iconic start on the Elephant Express
The journey into Hwange begins with an experience unlike any other: the Elephant Express. This isn’t your typical transfer; it’s a three-hour game drive, history lesson and lunch rolled into one.
‘It’s somewhat similar to a tram… That whole train journey is both a game-viewing and history experience, with great views of the landscape. You can sit there; there’s a gear stick and a steering wheel… you press the clutch and you accelerate. And they give you a little hat to wear while you are riding the train!’
The journey also takes you past the memorial to Cecil the lion, a reminder of the area’s ongoing conservation challenges, setting a meaningful tone for the safari ahead. Cecil was something of a feline celebrity in Hwange, collared and being tracked by researchers from the University of Oxford. Sadly, he was shot and killed by an American trophy hunter in 2015, his death sparking global outrage towards trophy hunting.
‘There’s a memorial for Cecil. It’s like this big tree off the side of the train tracks with his name on it,’ explains Devryn.
The cultural experience
For those longing for exploration, a safari must feel authentic, not just a surface-level luxury experience. This is where Imvelo’s camps shine, as their primary purpose is using tourism to fund infrastructure, healthcare and schooling for surrounding communities.
Devryn was visibly moved by this mission, noting that for him, the experience was less about the wildlife and more about the people and culture.
‘What’s really cool about Imvelo is their whole setup is based on using tourism to provide infrastructure, jobs, healthcare and schooling for the communities,’ he says. ‘Safaris come second to that primary purpose, which I think is very cool.’
Devryn describes the impact this has had firsthand, saying that Imvelo has put more than 400 children in school every year and has even built a clinic for the community.
One of Devryn’s most memorable moments here was meeting the community elders: ‘We sat with the village elder. His name is Mr Johnson, and all he was asking were provocative questions… you all sit around in the hut with your little tea and coffee, and you just chat with him – for me, it is not really about the wildlife; it’s about the culture and the people.’
Another key highlight was the ongoing rhino conservation efforts. Both white and black rhinos have been reintroduced to the area after nearly being wiped out in the early 2000s. This afforded Devryn the opportunity to see rhinos that have been brought back to the area and kept safe on community land.
This aspect really put the power of conservation tourism in perspective for Devryn. He explains: ‘The work we do… as much as it benefits the people that travel… the people on the ground, like the communities that are funded by the people we send their way, it means everything to them. Without our industry, there would be no rhinos in Hwange…’
A humbling perspective
While the luxury of Victoria Falls River Lodge and the relaxation of Shongwe are incredible, Devryn’s biggest takeaway from the trip remains the emotional weight of Hwange. When asked to summarise the experience in one word, his answer was: ‘Humbling’.
Devryn went looking for the real Zimbabwe and found it not just in the wildlife, but in the people who protect it. It’s a reminder that sometimes, the best way to find yourself is to lose yourself in the service of something greater.
Since 2002, Discover Africa has earned a reputation as one of the continent’s most trusted safari specialists. From our base in Cape Town, we design deeply personal journeys across southern and East Africa – not just itineraries, but stories that reflect who our travellers are and what they long to feel.
